The Best Bait for River Fishing in Australia

G’day! So, you’re keen to figure out the best bait for river fishing in Australia, eh? It’s a bit like a treasure hunt, really. You’ve got your lures, your plastics, and then there are the natural baits like yabbies and shrimp. Each one has its day, and knowing when to use what can make all the difference between a cracker catch and just a nice day out. It’s not just about chucking anything in the water; it’s about understanding what the fish are looking for. Let’s get into it and see if we can crack the code for your next river adventure.

Key Takeaways

Spinnerbaits and soft plastics are solid choices for many Australian river species, especially bass and cod. They mimic natural food and can be worked in different ways.
Live baits like yabbies and shrimp are often winners, as they present a natural, easy meal that many fish can’t resist.
Don’t forget the simple stuff; chicken liver and small fish can also be surprisingly effective, especially for certain predatory fish.
Lure colour, size, and action are super important. What works one day might not the next, so having a variety and being able to switch it up is key.
Paying attention to the retrieve speed and lure movement can make or break your fishing trip. Sometimes a slow wind is all it takes to get a bite.

1. Spinnerbaits

Spinnerbaits are a ripper choice for a lot of Aussie river fishing, especially when you’re chasing those aggressive fellas like barra or even some of the bigger bream. They’re pretty simple to use, which is a bonus, and they do a great job of mimicking baitfish. The spinning blade on the lure creates a heap of flash and vibration, which really gets the fish’s attention, especially in murky water where they might not see it coming.

How They Work

Basically, the blade spins around the wire arm, creating both visual attraction and a thumping vibration that travels through the water. This combo is a real winner for triggering a strike. You can work them at different speeds, too, which is handy.

When to Use Them

Murky or Dirty Water: The flash and vibration cut through the murk like a hot knife through butter.
Weedy Areas: They’re pretty snag-resistant, so you can bump them through weed beds where fish like to hide.
When Fish are Aggressive: That flash and vibration really gets their attention and can provoke a reaction strike.

Tips for Using Spinnerbaits

Don’t be afraid to experiment with the retrieve speed. Sometimes a slow, steady wind is all it takes, while other times, a bit of a faster retrieve with a few pauses can really make them sing. Pay attention to how the lure is behaving in the water; you want it to look as natural as possible, even with that spinning blade.

Spinnerbaits come in all sorts of sizes and colours, so it’s worth having a few different options in your tackle box. A good starting point is to match the hatch, so if you’re seeing small baitfish, go for a smaller spinnerbait. For bigger predators, you might want to step up the size. You can find some great options for Australian fish varieties that will work a treat.

2. Soft Plastics

Soft plastics are absolute rippers for river fishing, mate. They’re super versatile and you can rig ‘em up in so many ways to mimic whatever the fish are keen on eating. Think about what’s normally in the river – little baitfish, yabbies, even worms. You can get soft plastics that look just like that.

Matching the Hatch

This is where you try and make your lure look like the real deal. If the local bream are smashing tiny shrimp, you grab a prawn-shaped plastic in a colour that looks like a shrimp. Easy, right? Paddle tails can look like baitfish swimming, and curly tails can mimic worms. It’s all about trying to trick ‘em into thinking it’s a free feed.

When Matching Isn’t Working

Sometimes, though, the fish are just being stubborn. That’s when you gotta think outside the box. Maybe the baitfish are a certain colour, but a bright fluoro plastic is what gets the bite. It’s a bit of a gamble, but trying something totally different, like a ‘Nuked Chicken Glow’ or ‘Sexy Mullet’ colour, can totally turn a slow day around. Don’t be afraid to experiment with colours that don’t look like anything natural – sometimes they work a treat.

Colour Theory for Soft Plastics

I reckon there’s a bit of a colour theory that helps. You want to have a few colours from different groups:

Natural/Light Colours: These are your go-to for clear water and sunny days. Think translucent or colours that look like common baitfish. They’re subtle and don’t spook the fish.
Dark/Silhouette Colours: Perfect for dirty water or low-light conditions. These stand out as a dark shape, making them easy for predators to spot.
Fluoro/Bright Colours: These are your ‘wild cards’. Great for attracting attention, especially in murky water or when you want to trigger a reaction bite. Think bright pinks, greens, and oranges.

It’s a good idea to have a few options from each category in your tackle box.

Changing up your soft plastic colour is one of the easiest ways to get a bite when things go quiet. Don’t be afraid to swap them out regularly, especially if the conditions change – like the sun coming out or the water getting a bit dirtier.

Rigging and UV

How you rig your plastic matters too. A jighead with a bit of colour can make a big difference. You can match it to your plastic for a natural look, or use a dark one for contrast in murky water. Some plastics and jigheads have UV properties, which can be a real game-changer, especially in deeper or darker water. It’s like a secret weapon that can help the fish see your lure when they otherwise might not. You can check out some great options for soft plastics that come in a range of colours and styles.

3. Deep Divers

Diving Deep for Success

When the fish aren’t playing on the surface or in the mid-water, it’s time to send down some deep divers. These lures are designed to get down to where the bigger fish are lurking, often near the bottom or around submerged structure. Think of them as your secret weapon for those tougher days.

The key is getting them to the right depth. You want a lure that can consistently reach the strike zone without being dragged along the bottom and snagging up. Different lures have different diving capabilities, so it’s worth knowing what you’re working with.

Here’s a quick rundown of what makes them tick:

Depth Rating: Most deep divers will have a stated diving depth. This is usually based on using a specific line weight and amount of line out. More line out generally means a deeper dive, but also more drag.
Lip Size and Angle: The size and angle of the lure’s bib or lip are what push it down through the water. A bigger, more angled lip will generally make the lure dive deeper.
Body Shape: The shape of the lure’s body also affects its action and how it moves through the water. Some are designed for a tight wobble, others for a wider, more erratic action.

When choosing a deep diver, consider the type of structure you’re fishing. If it’s a sandy bottom, you can afford to run a bit deeper. If there are a lot of snags or rocks, you’ll need to be more precise with your depth and retrieve to avoid losing your lure. Sometimes, a slight adjustment in your retrieve speed can make all the difference between a snag and a strike. Experimenting with different retrieves is part of the fun, and it’s how you’ll figure out what the fish are keen on that particular day. For some great options that are known to perform well, check out lures like the Halco Laser Pro.

4. Topwater Lures

Topwater lures are all about the visual appeal and the excitement they bring to fishing. They work right on the surface, creating a commotion that can really get the attention of predatory fish. Think of it as a bit of a show for the fish – a splash here, a wiggle there, and suddenly, you’ve got a strike!

How They Work

These lures are designed to mimic baitfish, insects, or frogs struggling on the water’s surface. The action you impart with your rod is key. Different topwater lures require different techniques to get them moving just right. Some you’ll twitch, others you’ll ‘walk the dog’, and some just need a steady retrieve to create that enticing disturbance.

Types of Topwater Lures

There’s a fair bit of variety in the topwater world:

Poppers: These have a cupped face that ‘pops’ or ‘spits’ water when you twitch the rod, creating a great visual and sound.
Walk-the-Dog Lures: These are typically slender stickbaits that, with a specific rod-tip action, sashay back and forth across the surface, looking like a wounded baitfish.
Prop Baits: These have propellers on the front or back that spin and churn water as you retrieve them, making a lot of noise and splash.

When to Use Them

Topwater lures are often best on calmer days with clear to slightly stained water. Early mornings and late afternoons, when fish are often feeding near the surface, are prime times. If you see baitfish activity or surface boils, that’s a dead giveaway that topwater might just do the trick. It’s a really engaging way to fish, and when a fish smashes a lure right in front of you, it’s an absolute thrill. You can find a good range of fishing gear at places like Australian Fishing Tackle.

The visual aspect of topwater fishing is unmatched. Watching a fish explode on your lure right at the surface is pure adrenaline. It’s not just about catching fish; it’s about the whole experience and the anticipation.

5. Walk-The-Dog Lures

The Walk-The-Dog Technique

Alright, let’s talk about walk-the-dog lures. These are surface lures that, when worked correctly, create a side-to-side zig-zagging action on top of the water. It’s a classic technique that can be absolutely deadly, especially when the fish are looking up. The key is the retrieve – it’s all about rhythm. You want to give the lure that distinctive ‘walk’ without making it splash too much or pull too far forward.

Here’s the basic rundown on how to get them doing their thing:

Rod Tip Position: Keep your rod tip down, usually pointing towards the lure or slightly to the side. This helps you control the lure’s movement.
The Twitch: A sharp, short twitch of the rod tip is what makes the lure dart side-to-side. It’s not a big, sweeping motion, just a quick flick.
The Pause: After each twitch, there’s usually a short pause. This is often when the fish will strike, so don’t rush it.
The Wind: You’ll need to take up the slack line created by the twitch and pause with a slow, steady wind. This keeps the lure ready for the next twitch.

It takes a bit of practice to get the cadence right, but once you do, it’s incredibly rewarding. Think of it like a little dance on the water. You’re trying to mimic a baitfish that’s struggling or trying to escape.

Some anglers find it easier to get the walk-the-dog action by using a slightly faster retrieve with short, sharp twitches, while others prefer a slower approach with longer pauses. It really depends on the specific lure and the conditions on the day. Don’t be afraid to experiment with your retrieve speed and the intensity of your twitches to see what gets the best reaction from the fish.

When you’re starting out, try lures like the Lucky Craft Sammy or the Heddon Super Spook. They’re proven performers and relatively easy to get walking. Remember, the goal is to make it look like an easy meal for a hungry predator. If you’re struggling to get the action right, try watching some videos online of experienced anglers working these lures. You can also check out some great fishing tips for preserving your catch to make sure you get the most out of your fishing trips.

6. Ecogear ZX40

Ecogear ZX40

Right then, let’s talk about the Ecogear ZX40. This little ripper is a bit of a legend in Australian fishing circles, and for good reason. It’s one of those lures that just seems to work, no matter what the conditions are doing. Seriously, I’ve seen this thing pull fish out of crystal clear water on a sunny day, and then pull them out of murky, tannin-stained rivers when nothing else is getting a look-in. It’s a real all-rounder, this one.

What makes it so good? Well, it’s got a bit of everything going on. You’ve got the vibration from the blade, the subtle action from the tassels, and the whole thing is designed to catch a fish’s eye. It’s not overly flashy, but it’s got enough going on to get noticed. Think of it like this:

Darker back: Helps with visibility in clearer water.
Gold flecks: Adds a bit of flash, like scales.
Lighter mid-section: Good contrast.
Orange belly: A classic attractor colour.
Red and black eyes: Gives it a bit of life.
Brown tassels: Adds movement and texture.
UV reactive: This is a big one, especially in lower light or dirtier water.

It’s the combination of these features that makes the ZX40 so effective across so many different situations. I’ve heard of people catching over 30 different species on these lures, from bream and whiting to flathead and even some bigger pelagic species. It’s a testament to how well it’s designed. You can find similar lures out there, but the ZX40 in colour 440 is a proven performer that’s earned its spot in my tackle box.

7. Bassman Spinnerbaits

Right then, let’s talk about Bassman Spinnerbaits. These blokes have really made a name for themselves in the Aussie fishing scene, and for good reason. They’re built tough, and they just seem to have that something extra that gets the fish biting, especially when you’re chasing barra or even some of the bigger cod in our rivers.

Why Bassman Spinnerbaits Work

What makes these stand out? Well, it’s a few things. Firstly, the quality of the components is top-notch. We’re talking about a really solid build that can handle a fair bit of punishment from angry fish. The skirts are usually pretty vibrant, and they’ve got a good action in the water. Plus, the blades are designed to spin up easily, even at slower retrieves, which is a big plus when the fish are a bit shy. They’ve got a reputation for being one of the world’s best spinnerbait swivels, which means less tangles and more consistent lure action.

When to Throw Them

These are your go-to lures when you’re fishing around structure like submerged timber, weed beds, or even rocky outcrops. The spinnerbait design, with its wire arm, helps to keep the hook point protected, meaning you can bump them through snags without getting snagged up yourself. That’s a massive advantage in river systems where snags are everywhere.

Picking the Right One

Bassman offers a fair few variations, so it’s worth knowing what to look for:

Blade Configuration: You’ll see single blade, tandem blade, and even double willow setups. Tandem blades often give a bit more flash and vibration, while a single, larger blade can be great for slower retrieves. Willow blades are good for speed and flash, while Colorado blades offer more thump and are better for slower speeds.
Skirt Colours: Think about the water clarity. Brighter colours like chartreuse or white are good for murky water, while more natural tones like greens and browns can work well in clear conditions. Don’t be afraid to mix it up though!
Weight: The weight of the spinnerbait will affect how deep it runs and how fast it sinks. Heavier ones are good for getting down into deeper holes or fighting a current, while lighter ones are better for shallower water or a more subtle presentation.

Honestly, if you’re not chucking a Bassman spinnerbait at some point when you’re out on the river, you’re probably missing out. They’re a proven performer, and they’re built to last. Give them a burl, you won’t regret it. You can find a great range of spinnerbait lures that are built tough for Australian conditions.

8. Mad Mullets

Mad Mullets

Alright, let’s talk about Mad Mullets. These things are pretty neat, especially if you’re after a few different types of fish in our Aussie rivers. They’re basically soft plastic lures that look a bit like a prawn or a shrimp, and that’s exactly what a lot of our freshwater critters love to munch on. The action they give off in the water is pretty realistic, mimicking that natural scuttling movement of a prawn trying to get away.

The key to getting these working is all in the retrieve. You don’t want to just yank them through the water. Think more like short, sharp hops off the bottom, or a slow, steady wind with the occasional pause. It’s about making it look like a genuine meal that’s either trying to hide or escape.

Here’s a bit of a breakdown on how to get the best out of them:

Jig Head Choice: Match your jig head weight to the depth and current. Too light and it’ll float up, too heavy and it’ll just drag. Aim for that sweet spot where it bounces nicely off the bottom.
Retrieve Speed: Experiment! Sometimes a slow, twitchy retrieve works, other times a steady wind is the go. Pay attention to what the fish are telling you.
Colour Selection: Like most lures, colour matters. Natural prawn colours are usually a safe bet, but don’t be afraid to try some brighter, fluoro options if the water’s a bit murky or the bite is tough. Think about what’s naturally in the river.

These lures are great for bream, flathead, and even some estuary perch. They’re a solid option when you want something that looks and acts like real bait without the hassle of rigging up live stuff. Give them a burl, you might be surprised how well they go. They’re a good addition to your tackle box, especially if you’re fishing around structure where prawns like to hang out. You can find some decent options for beach worms too, if that’s more your style.

9. Jackall Pompadours

Right then, let’s talk about the Jackall Pompadour. This little ripper is a topwater lure that really shakes things up, especially when you’re chasing those surface-feeding fish. It’s got this unique side-to-side wobble and a bit of a splash that just drives predators wild. It’s the sort of lure that makes you want to keep casting it, even when you’re not getting bites, because it just looks so darn good doing its thing.

How to Use Them

Using a Pompadour is pretty straightforward, but there are a few tricks to get the most out of it:

The Retrieve: You want to give it a bit of a twitch and pause. Don’t just reel it in steadily. Think short, sharp twitches of the rod tip, followed by a brief pause. This makes it look like a struggling baitfish or an injured frog, which is irresistible to a lot of fish.
Sound and Vibration: The Pompadour makes a bit of noise and vibration as it moves. This is a big part of its appeal, especially in murkier water where fish rely on more than just sight. It calls them in.
When to Use: These are best used when the fish are actively feeding on the surface. Think early mornings, late afternoons, or overcast days. If you see baitfish skipping or birds diving, that’s prime Pompadour territory.

Why They Work

The real magic of the Jackall Pompadour lies in its action and profile. It’s designed to mimic a frog or a wounded baitfish, and that erratic movement is what triggers a predatory response. The noise it makes also plays a big part, acting like a dinner bell for hungry fish. It’s a bit of a specialist lure, but when conditions are right, it’s an absolute weapon. If you’re looking to add a bit of excitement to your fishing, especially for species like Australian bass or even some estuary dwellers, give the Pompadour a burl. You might just find your new favourite lure. For more on choosing the right gear, check out this guide on fish cooking methods.

10. Yabbies

Right then, let’s talk about yabbies. These little fellas are absolute gold when it comes to tempting a few of our river dwellers, especially bream. They’re a natural food source for a lot of the fish we’re after, so it makes sense they’d be a top bait.

Where to Find ‘Em

You’ll often find yabbies hanging around in the muddy bottoms of estuaries and slow-moving rivers. Look for those tell-tale holes in the mud, especially when the tide’s going out. They’re a bit shy, so you might need to be patient.

How to Use Them

Using yabbies is pretty straightforward, really. You want to rig them up so they look as natural as possible. A good way to do this is to thread them onto your hook, making sure the point comes out near the tail. This way, they can still wriggle around a bit, which is a big attractant for the fish.

Hook ‘em through the tail: This lets them move and attract attention.
Keep it simple: Don’t overcomplicate your rig. A simple running sinker or a paternoster rig usually does the trick.
Cast and wait: Let the current do some of the work. A bit of subtle movement from the yabby is often all it takes.

What They Attract

While bream are the main target, don’t be surprised if you pull out a flathead or even a nice whiting on a yabby. They’re a pretty versatile bait, and that natural scent and movement are hard for most estuary fish to resist.

The key with yabbies is to present them naturally. If they look like they’re trying to escape, that’s usually a good sign. Don’t be afraid to try different spots, especially around structure where fish like to hang out.

11. Shrimp

Shrimp are a ripper bait for a lot of Aussie river species, especially bream and flathead. They’re a natural food source, so fish just can’t resist ‘em. You can rig ‘em up in a few ways, but often, just a small jig head is all you need to get them moving naturally.

The key is to keep the presentation subtle. Think about how a real shrimp moves – a bit jerky, a bit of a drift. You don’t want to be yanking it around like a madman. A slow, steady retrieve with the odd pause is usually the go.

Here’s a quick rundown on how to get the best out of shrimp:

Rigging: Use a sharp, light jig head. You want it just heavy enough to get to the bottom without dragging. A small weedless hook can also work if you’re fishing through a bit of structure.
Presentation: Try to mimic a shrimp’s natural movement. A lift-and-drop retrieve often does the trick. Let it sink, give it a little twitch, let it sink again.
When to Use: They’re brilliant in clear water and when the fish are a bit shy. If the water’s a bit dirty, you might need to add a bit of scent or go for a brighter coloured lure.

Remember, the smaller the shrimp, the more finesse you’ll need. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different sizes and colours to see what the fish are keen on that day.

12. Chicken Liver

Chicken liver. Yeah, I know, sounds a bit old-school, right? But don’t knock it ‘til you’ve tried it, especially for bream and other estuary dwellers. It’s cheap as chips and surprisingly effective when you get it right.

How to Rig It

Rigging chicken liver is pretty straightforward, but a few tricks can make a big difference. You want to keep it on the hook but also allow it to move naturally in the current.

Start with a sharp hook: A good quality, sharp hook is non-negotiable. You don’t want to miss a bite because your hook is blunt.
Thread it on: Gently thread a piece of chicken liver onto the hook. Try to get a good amount of the hook shank covered to prevent the bait from spinning.
Secure it: Some anglers like to use a bit of bait elastic to hold the liver firmly in place. This stops it from falling off on the cast or when a fish has a go at it. It also helps keep the bait on when you’re fishing around structure.

When to Use Chicken Liver

Chicken liver really shines in a few specific situations. It’s not your go-to for every single fishing trip, but when the conditions are right, it’s a killer.

Murky or Tannin Water: In water that’s not super clear, the scent and slightly softer texture of chicken liver can be a real advantage. Fish can find it by smell when they can’t see as well.
Slow Retrieve: This bait isn’t designed for fast casting and winding. You want to present it gently, letting the current do some of the work. Think of it as a bit of a lazy bait.
Targeting Bream: While other fish might have a go, bream seem to have a particular liking for chicken liver. It’s a classic bream bait for a reason.

The key with chicken liver is not to overthink it. It’s a simple bait that works on a simple principle: scent and a bit of natural movement. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different sizes and how you thread it onto the hook. Sometimes, a smaller piece works better, other times a chunkier bit is the go. It’s all about finding what the fish are keen on that particular day. You might even find it works well for other estuary species too, so keep an open mind. It’s a great way to add variety to your bait selection without breaking the bank, and it’s a good option if you’re looking for something different to try. It’s also a good way to use up leftovers if you’re feeling particularly thrifty, though I’d recommend getting it fresh from the butcher for the best results. You can even find some great recipes for preparing fish like Barramundi using similar simple ingredients, which is always a good thing to have in your arsenal. Australian white fish are always a good bet when you’re looking for a quality meal after a day on the water.

13. Small Fish

Right then, let’s talk about using actual small fish as bait. It sounds pretty obvious, doesn’t it? If the fish you’re chasing eat little critters, chucking a little critter in front of them is a no-brainer. We’re talking about things like yabbies, shrimp, or even small baitfish if you can get ‘em. These are the real deal, the natural stuff that predators are always on the lookout for.

Live Bait vs. Dead Bait

Using live bait is usually the go-to. Think about a wriggling yabby or a shrimp doing its thing – it’s like a dinner bell for hungry fish. Dead bait can still work, especially if it’s got a bit of scent or you’re fishing in murky water where the visual appeal isn’t as important. The key is keeping it fresh and natural-looking.

Best Small Fish Baits

Yabbies: These little freshwater crustaceans are gold for bream, perch, and even some estuary cod. Just hook ‘em through the tail or the horn so they can still move around.
Shrimp: Whether they’re freshwater or saltwater, shrimp are a top bait for a massive range of fish, from bream and flathead to whiting and even some smaller reefies.
Small Baitfish: If you can legally catch and use small pilchards, whitebait, or even hardyheads, they’re dynamite for bigger predators like flathead, tailor, or jewfish. Just be careful not to use anything too big that might scare off your target species.

Presentation is Key

How you rig your bait makes a huge difference. You want it to look as natural as possible. For live baits, a light running sinker or just a hook and float is often best. For dead baits, a paternoster rig or a running sinker rig can work well, depending on the conditions and what you’re targeting.

Don’t underestimate the power of scent. Even if your bait isn’t moving much, a good natural scent trail can draw fish in from a distance. Sometimes, a bit of extra fish oil or a commercial scent can give you the edge.

Line Weight Considerations

When you’re using smaller baits, you’re often targeting smaller to medium-sized fish, so you don’t need super heavy line. Something in the 2lb to 6lb range is usually spot on for clear water and less snaggy spots. However, if you’re fishing around structure like oyster racks or bridge pylons, you might want to bump up to 8lb or 10lb to avoid getting busted off by a sneaky snag or a bigger-than-expected fish.

Target Species	Recommended Line Weight (lb)	Notes
Bream	2-6	Use lighter for clear water, heavier for structure
Flathead	4-8	Can be prone to snagging, so a bit of backbone helps
Whiting	2-4	Very sensitive to line visibility
Estuary Perch	4-8	Can be found in structure, so consider line strength

14. Lure Colour

Choosing the right lure colour can make a massive difference when you’re out on the river. It’s not just about looking pretty; it’s about tricking those fish into thinking they’re about to get a feed. Think about what the local baitfish or crustaceans look like – that’s your starting point. If the water’s clear and the sun’s out, natural, translucent colours often work a treat. They mimic the real deal pretty well.

But sometimes, you need to go a bit left-field. If the usual suspects aren’t getting a sniff, try something totally different. A bright chartreuse or a fluoro pink might just be the ticket to get a bite when nothing else is working. It’s all about experimenting and seeing what the fish are responding to on the day.

Here’s a rough guide to help you pick:

Clear Water/Bright Conditions: Think natural, subtle colours. Greens, browns, clear with flecks, or even white can be good. It’s like trying to blend in with the scenery.
Cloudy/Murky Water: You need something that stands out. Bright colours like chartreuse, pink, or orange can help the fish spot your lure. Darker colours like black or purple can also create a good silhouette.
General Purpose: Having a few go-to colours that work in most situations is handy. Think about colours that mimic common baitfish in your area, like silver, gold, or a mix of colours.

Don’t forget about UV colours. Many fish can see UV light, and a lure that glows under UV can be a real advantage, especially in deeper or murkier water. It’s like a secret signal only the fish can see.

It’s also worth remembering that lure colour isn’t the only factor. The action, size, and how you retrieve it all play a part. But getting the colour right is a solid first step to a successful fishing trip. For example, when fishing for Murray cod in rivers where redfin are common, select a greenish lure with red highlights. This simple approach can improve your success on the river.

15. Lure Size

Lure Size Matters

Choosing the right lure size is a bit like picking the right bait – it really depends on what the fish are actually eating. If you see bream smashing tiny baitfish, chucking a massive lure probably isn’t going to cut it. It’s all about matching the hatch, as they say. Smaller lures are generally good for clearer water or when the fish are a bit shy, as they look more natural and are less likely to spook ‘em. On the flip side, if you’re fishing in murky water or targeting bigger predators, a larger lure can be more visible and enticing.

Think about it this way:

Small Lures (Under 50mm): Ideal for bream, whiting, and other smaller estuary species. They mimic small baitfish or prawns really well.
Medium Lures (50mm – 90mm): A good all-rounder for a variety of species like flathead, tailor, and even some smaller barra.
Large Lures (Over 90mm): Best for targeting bigger fish like barra, jewfish, or murray cod. You want something substantial to get their attention.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with different sizes; sometimes a slightly larger or smaller lure than what seems obvious can make all the difference. It’s a bit of trial and error, but paying attention to the local baitfish can give you a massive head start. For instance, if you’re seeing lots of tiny shrimp around, a smaller profile lure is often the go. You can find some great info on identifying local fish species to help with this on Australian freshwater and saltwater fish.

Sometimes, even when you think you’ve got the size spot on, the fish might be after something completely different. It’s a good idea to have a few different sizes in your tackle box to cover your bases. You never know when a change in size will be the key to cracking the code.

16. Lure Action

When you’re out on the water, the way you work your lure is just as important as the lure itself. You’ve gotta make it look like a real meal for the fish, you know? Think about how baitfish or prawns move – they dart, they pause, they flutter. That’s the kind of action you want to mimic.

Making Your Lure Behave

It’s all about making your lure look as natural as possible during the retrieve. This means experimenting with your rod tip. Sometimes a slow, steady wind does the trick. Other days, you’ll need to mix it up with pauses, little twitches, or even an excruciatingly slow wind. Every day can be different, so you need to test what the fish are responding to.

Here’s a bit of a breakdown on how to get that action right:

Steady Retrieve: Good for crankbaits and some paddle-tail plastics. Just wind it in at a consistent speed.
Twitching: Short, sharp flicks of the rod tip. Great for jerkbaits and soft plastics to give them that erratic movement.
Jerking: A more aggressive pull of the rod. This can make lures dart erratically, mimicking a fleeing baitfish.
Hopping/Jigging: Lifting and dropping your lure. Perfect for soft plastics on jig heads, making them bounce off the bottom.
Pausing: Letting the lure sit dead still for a moment. This can often trigger a strike from a hesitant fish.

Testing the Waters

Don’t be afraid to spend time in your backyard pool casting lures and practising your rod actions. It sounds a bit silly, but it really helps you get a feel for how different lures respond. You’ll quickly learn what works and what doesn’t. Remember, the goal is to make your lure look like an easy meal, not a struggling one. If you’re fishing for snapper, for instance, understanding their feeding habits and how they ambush prey can give you clues on the best retrieve to use. Understanding snapper behaviour can really pay off.

The key is observation and adaptation. Watch how baitfish move in the water, and try to replicate that with your lure. If one action isn’t working, don’t just keep doing it; switch it up. You might find that a subtle change in retrieve speed or adding a pause can make all the difference.

17. Lure Weight

Choosing the right lure weight is a bit like picking the right tool for the job – you wouldn’t use a sledgehammer to crack an egg, right? It all comes down to what you’re trying to achieve and the conditions you’re fishing in.

Light Tackle

For finesse fishing, especially in clear, calm water where the fish are a bit shy, you’ll want to go light. Think 2lb to 6lb line weights. This setup is great for presenting smaller lures with a subtle action, and it really helps when you want to avoid spooking wary fish. The downside? You’re more likely to get snagged or have a bigger by-catch like a flathead run off with your bream lure. It happens more often than you’d think!

Heavier Options

Now, if you’re targeting fish around structure like oyster leases, bridge pylons, or rock walls, you’ll need to step up your line weight. Going with 8lb to 12lb line means you’ve got a better chance of wrestling a fish away from those snags. It also lets you use thicker line, which is handy on overcast days or when the water’s a bit murky. The catch here is that heavier line is more visible to the fish, and bream, in particular, can be pretty easily spooked by it.

Matching Weight to Conditions

Water Clarity: In clear water, lighter lines and lures are generally better to avoid detection.
Structure: Fishing around snags or heavy cover requires heavier line to prevent break-offs.
Current: A bit of current might mean you need a slightly heavier lure to get down to the strike zone.
Target Species: Bigger, stronger fish will need heavier tackle to handle them.

The weight of your lure directly impacts how it behaves in the water. A heavier lure will sink faster and can be cast further, while a lighter lure will suspend or float, offering a different presentation. Getting this balance right is key to imitating natural baitfish movement.

18. Lure Retrieve

Alright, so you’ve picked your lure, chucked it out there, and now it’s time for the magic – the retrieve. This is where you make that lure look like a tasty little morsel that a hungry river fish just can’t resist. Honestly, it’s not rocket science, but there’s definitely an art to it.

The Basics of the Wind

Most of the time, a steady retrieve is your best bet. You want to wind it in just fast enough to get the lure doing its thing – whether that’s wobbling, spinning, or kicking. Think about how a baitfish moves; they don’t just dart around randomly, they’ve got purpose. Try to mimic that natural movement with your rod tip and reel speed. Sometimes, a slow, consistent wind is all it takes to get a bite. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different speeds to see what the fish are keen on that particular day. You might find that a bit of a pause every now and then really makes a difference, giving a following fish a chance to catch up and strike.

Mixing It Up: Twitches and Jerks

Some days, the fish are a bit more fussy. That’s when you need to add a bit of personality to your retrieve. A sharp twitch of the rod tip can make your lure dart erratically, like a startled baitfish. A gentle jerk can give it a bit of a shimmy. These little changes in action can be the difference between a blank session and a ripper one. It’s all about making your lure look alive and vulnerable. Remember, you’re trying to trick a fish into thinking it’s found an easy meal, not a plastic toy being dragged through the water.

The Slow Burn

Don’t underestimate the power of a super slow retrieve. Seriously, sometimes you need to wind it in so slowly it feels like you’re barely moving. This is particularly effective when the water is a bit cooler or the fish are a bit sluggish. You’re basically giving them time to inspect the lure and decide it’s worth the effort to chase it down. It can be agonisingly slow, but when it works, it’s gold. You might even find yourself just letting the current do some of the work for you.

Covering Ground Effectively

When you’re lure fishing, you can’t just sit in one spot like you might with bait. You need to be actively covering ground. A good rule of thumb is to cast about 10 times into a promising area, and if you’re not getting any interest, move on. If you do get a bite or hook a fish, though, stick around a bit longer. Fish often hang out in schools, so there might be more lurking nearby. Making sure your lure is constantly in the strike zone will increase your chances of success. You might lose a few lures to snags, but your fish count will go up. For a good starting point on how to work lures, check out some basic blade lure techniques.

The key is to make your lure look as natural as possible. Watch how baitfish and prawns move in the water, and then try to replicate that action with your rod and reel. It takes practice, but it’s worth it.

19. Lure Movement

Right then, let’s talk about how you make your lure move. It’s not just about chucking it in and winding it back, is it? You’ve gotta give it some life, make it look like a struggling baitfish or a tasty little prawn trying to get away.

Making Your Lure Dance

Think about how real bait moves. A prawn might dart around, a small fish might flick its tail or swim with a bit of wobble. You can copy this with your rod tip and the way you reel.

Twitching: A sharp flick of the wrist can make a lure dart sideways, like a startled baitfish.
Jerking: A more aggressive pull on the rod can make a lure change direction suddenly.
Pausing: Sometimes, just letting the lure sit still for a second or two is all it takes. Predators often strike when they think their prey is vulnerable.
Steady Retrieve: For some lures, a consistent, smooth wind is all that’s needed to give it a natural swimming action.

Experimenting with Retrieve

Honestly, the best movement often depends on the day and what the fish are feeling like. You might have a day where a slow, steady wind works a treat, and then the next day, you’ll need to mix it up with pauses and twitches. Don’t be afraid to try different speeds and actions until you find what gets a bite.

It’s all about making that lure look as natural as possible. Spend some time just watching how baitfish move in the water, or even how a prawn scuttles along. Try to replicate that with your rod. You might even want to practice in your backyard pool if you’ve got one – it sounds a bit mad, but it really helps you get a feel for how your lure is behaving.

The key is to keep it interesting and unpredictable.

20. Lure Visibility

Right then, let’s talk about how visible your lure is to the fish. It sounds pretty obvious, but it’s a bit more than just picking a bright colour. Think about the conditions you’re fishing in – is the water clear as a bell, or is it a bit murky?

Clear Water, Sunny Days

On those cracker days when the sun’s out and the water’s crystal clear, fish can be a bit spooky. They’ve got a good look at everything. In this situation, you want your lure to look natural, like the real deal. Think subtle colours, maybe transparent ones, or ones that mimic the local baitfish. It’s all about blending in, not screaming ‘eat me!’

Natural Colours: Browns, greens, clear or translucent plastics.
Subtle Flash: Small flecks of silver or gold can imitate scales.
Match the Hatch: If you see small baitfish, try to match their colour and size.

Murky Water or Overcast Days

When the water’s a bit dirty or the sky’s grey, you need your lure to stand out. This is where brighter, bolder colours come into play. They act like a beacon, helping the fish find your lure when they can’t see too far.

Fluorescent Colours: Chartreuse, pink, and bright oranges are your friends here.
Dark Silhouettes: Sometimes a dark lure against a lighter background works a treat.
UV Reactive Lures: These can be a game-changer as fish can see UV light even when we can’t.

The key is to have a few options in your tackle box. What works one day might not work the next, so being able to switch up your lure’s visibility based on the conditions is a big part of cracking the code. Don’t be afraid to experiment; sometimes the most unexpected colours get the bites.

UV and Contrast

Many fish can see colours that we can’t, especially in the UV spectrum. Lures with UV properties can really grab a fish’s attention, particularly in deeper or murkier water. Also, think about contrast. A lure with a dark back and a bright belly, or some contrasting colours, can mimic a baitfish’s natural pattern and make it more appealing. It’s like giving the fish a clear target.

21. Lure Contrast

Right then, let’s talk about lure contrast. It’s not just about picking a colour that looks pretty; it’s about how that colour stands out, or blends in, with the surroundings. Think about it – if the water’s murky, a bright, flashy lure might get noticed, but if it’s crystal clear, you might need something a bit more subtle. The key is to have a few different options that offer varying levels of contrast.

Sometimes, a lure with a few different colours on it can be the ticket. You know, like a darker back with a lighter belly, or maybe some flecks of glitter. This can mimic the natural patterns of baitfish, giving the predator something familiar to latch onto. It’s all about giving them a visual cue that says ‘food here!’

Here’s a rough guide on when to consider different contrast levels:

Clear Water, Bright Day: Go for natural, translucent colours. Think subtle contrasts, maybe a hint of flash. You don’t want to spook ‘em.
Murky Water, Overcast Day: This is where you can get away with bolder contrasts. Think darker colours with bright accents, or even UV-reactive bits. They need something to pick out in the gloom.
Dawn/Dusk: Often a good time for darker colours with some contrast, especially if there’s a bit of colour in the sky. The Bingo Bug Black Leech is a good example of a darker lure that can still get noticed.

It’s easy to get bogged down in the ‘match the hatch’ idea, and yeah, that’s important. But don’t forget that sometimes, a bit of contrast can actually make your lure more visible to a hungry fish, even if it doesn’t perfectly mimic the local snacks. It’s about creating an attractive target.

So, next time you’re picking a lure, have a think about the water clarity and the light conditions. Does your lure offer the right kind of contrast to get noticed without being too obvious? It’s a bit of an art, but getting it right can make all the difference.

22. Lure Shine

The Sparkle Factor

Ever noticed how some lures just seem to catch your eye, even when they’re just sitting there? That’s often down to their shine. Think of it like a bit of bling for the fish. In the Aussie river scene, a bit of sparkle can make a big difference, especially when the water’s a bit murky or the light’s not great.

Why Shine Matters

Fish, like us, are often attracted to shiny things. It can mimic the scales of baitfish or the glint of an insect. This flash can grab a predator’s attention from a distance, drawing them in for a closer look. It’s all about making your lure stand out in the underwater world.

Mimics natural prey: The flash of scales on a fleeing baitfish is a big attractant.
Attracts attention: In low light or dirty water, shine helps fish locate your lure.
Triggers curiosity: A bit of sparkle can pique a fish’s interest, even if it’s not actively hunting.

Glitter and Fleck

Many lures come with glitter or fleck mixed into the plastic. This is a simple yet effective way to add that subtle flash. Darker flecks, like black, can actually help break up the solid colour of the lure, making it look more natural, almost like camouflage with a bit of pizzazz. It’s a neat trick that seems to work a treat.

Sometimes, the simplest additions make the biggest difference. That little bit of glitter isn’t just for show; it’s a calculated move to get noticed underwater. It’s like adding a bit of personality to your lure.

When to Use Shine

While shine is generally good, there are times when it’s even better. Think about those days when the water’s got a bit of colour or tannin in it, or when the sun’s hiding behind clouds. That’s when a bit of glitter or a shiny finish can really make your lure pop. It helps the fish see what’s going on. For example, lures with gold flecks can be particularly effective in these conditions, offering a natural flash that mimics distressed baitfish. You might find that lures like the Infeet Metal Vibe use this to their advantage in tougher conditions.

Balancing Act

It’s not always about maximum shine, though. Sometimes, too much flash can spook wary fish. If you’re finding that your super-shiny lures aren’t getting any attention, try switching to something a bit more subdued. The key is to have a few options in your tackle box, from subtle shimmers to full-on glitter bombs, and see what the fish are telling you on the day.

23. Lure Sparkle

The Sparkle Factor

Sometimes, a bit of sparkle is all it takes to get a fish interested. Think of it like a tiny disco ball for the underwater world. This flash can really grab a predator’s attention, especially when the water’s a bit murky or the light’s not great. It’s all about giving them something extra to notice in the gloom.

Glitter and Fleck: These tiny bits in your lure mimic the scale flash of baitfish or the shimmer of insects. They break up a solid colour and make the lure look more natural, like it belongs there.
Subtle Flash: You don’t want it to be blinding, just enough to catch an eye. A bit of subtle shimmer can make all the difference.
Water Clarity: In clear water, less might be more. But in dirty or tannin-stained rivers, that sparkle can be a real game-changer. It helps the fish pick out your lure from the murk.

It’s worth having a few options in your tackle box – some lures with sparkle and some without. If the fish aren’t biting, try switching from a sparkly lure to a plain one, or vice versa. It’s all part of the fun of figuring out what they want on the day.

Some popular colours that incorporate sparkle or fleck include:

Pearl with gold and silver glitter
Motor Oil / Midnight Oil (often has UV properties too)
Pumpkinseed (with darker flecks)

Remember, fishing is about experimenting. What works one day might not work the next, so don’t be afraid to try different lures and see what gets the bite. Sometimes, that little bit of sparkle is the secret ingredient to a successful day on the water. For more on choosing the right lures, check out this guide on trout spin fishing techniques.

24. Lure UV Specks

The UV Factor

Alright, let’s talk about UV specks on your lures. You know how some colours just seem to grab a fish’s attention, even when the water’s a bit murky or the light’s not great? A lot of that comes down to UV reactivity. Fish, unlike us, can see into the ultraviolet spectrum. This means colours and patterns that look pretty standard to us might actually be flashing like a beacon to them underwater. It’s all about giving them something extra to spot.

Think of it like this: UV light is beyond what we can see, past violet. When certain materials hit this light, they glow – that’s fluorescence. Lure makers are cottoning onto this, adding UV specks and patterns to their plastics and hard-bodies. It’s not just about bright colours; it’s about how those colours interact with the light available underwater. Some fluoro colours are naturally UV reactive, but you might find other, more subtle colours that also get a UV kick. It’s worth experimenting to see what works in your local river.

Matching the Hatch: Even natural colours can benefit from UV specks, mimicking the subtle shimmer on baitfish scales.
Low Light Advantage: In dawn, dusk, or cloudy conditions, UV can make your lure stand out.
Dirty Water: When visibility is poor, UV specks can act like a signal flare for hungry predators.

It’s not a magic bullet for every situation, but having a few lures with UV elements in your tackle box is a smart move. If your usual go-to lures aren’t cutting it, try switching to something with a bit of UV pop. You might just find that extra bit of visibility makes all the difference. Remember, you can even add UV-reactive jigheads to your soft plastics for an extra boost. It’s another trick to add to your arsenal when you’re trying to crack the code on a tough fishing day. For more on lure fishing techniques, check out this info on lure fishing in streams.

Sometimes, it’s the little details that turn a slow day into a successful one. Those tiny UV specks might seem insignificant to us, but underwater, they can be the difference between a fish ignoring your lure and absolutely smashing it. It’s all about understanding how the fish sees the world.

25. Lure Red Eyes and more

Red Eyes and More

Alright, let’s talk about the little details that can make a big difference when you’re out on the water. We’ve covered colours, sizes, and actions, but sometimes it’s the finer points that really get the fish thinking. Think of it like this: you’ve got a lure that looks the part, swims okay, but it’s just not quite doing it. That’s where things like red eyes, contrasting colours, and even a bit of UV shine come into play.

Fish have eyes, and just like us, they notice things. A bit of red or black for eyes on a lure can mimic a real baitfish’s eyes, making your lure look more alive and less like a bit of plastic. It’s a simple trick, but it can really help trigger a strike, especially when the fish are a bit hesitant. It’s all about adding that touch of realism.

Beyond just the eyes, consider the overall contrast on your lure. You might have a lure with a darker back, some gold flecks in the middle, and a brighter belly. These different colours and patterns break up the silhouette and can make your lure stand out, even in murky water. It’s like giving the fish a few different things to focus on.

Here’s a quick rundown of what to look for:

Eye Appeal: Red, black, or even contrasting colours for eyes can make a big difference.
Colour Contrast: Think darker backs, lighter bellies, and flecks of colour in the middle.
UV Reactivity: Many fish can see UV light, so lures with UV specks or coatings can be more visible.
Shine and Sparkle: A bit of glitter or a shiny finish can mimic scales and attract attention.

Sometimes, it’s not just about the main colour of your lure. Those little extras, like a bright orange gill plate or a subtle UV speck, can be the difference between a fish ignoring your lure and absolutely smashing it. It’s the small details that often get overlooked but can be absolute game-changers.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with lures that have these extra features. You might find that a particular lure with a bit of sparkle or a bright red eye is the secret weapon you’ve been missing. It’s all part of the fun of figuring out what the fish are looking for on any given day, and it’s why having a varied tackle box is so important for successful Australian fishing.

So, What’s the Go?

Right then, we’ve covered a fair bit of ground on what makes a river fish tick and what sort of lures get ‘em biting. Remember, it’s not just about chucking a lure in and hoping for the best. You’ve gotta think about where they’re hiding, what they’re likely munching on, and even the time of day can make a heap of difference. Don’t be afraid to mix it up with different colours and retrieve styles – sometimes a little change is all it takes. But most importantly, just get out there and have a crack. Even if the fish aren’t playing ball, you’re still out in the Aussie bush, breathing fresh air, and that’s a win in my book. Tight lines, everyone!

Frequently Asked Questions

What’s the best lure for Murray Cod?

Mate, for Murray Cod, spinnerbaits and big soft plastic lures are usually the go-to. They look a bit like the little fish and critters that cod love to eat, so they reckon they’re pretty tasty. Try bright colours when it’s sunny, and darker ones when it’s getting dark or early morning.

What’s the best bait for the Murray River?

For the Murray River, live baits like yabbies, shrimp, and small fish such as carp or gudgeons work a treat for all sorts of fish. If you’re after a big Murray Cod, chucking in some big live baits or even chicken liver can do the trick. Just think about what the fish normally eats, and you’ll be on the right track.

What colour lure should I use for cod?

When the water’s a bit murky or cloudy, bright colours like yellow, green, or orange can really get the cod’s attention. If the water’s clearer, though, more natural colours that look like their usual tucker, like browns, greens, and greys, are often better. It’s all about making sure they can see it and that it looks like a good meal.

What size hooks are best for Murray Cod?

For Murray Cod, you’ll want pretty big hooks, somewhere between size 2/0 and 6/0. The exact size depends on how big your bait is or what lure you’re using. If you’re using lures, make sure the hook size fits the lure so it looks natural. Circle hooks are good for live bait because they stop the fish swallowing the hook too deep, which is handy if you want to let them go.

How do I catch Murray Cod using lures?

To catch Murray Cod with lures, try casting near places where they like to hang out, like logs, rocks, or weed patches. Reel the lure in slowly, like it’s a bit injured, and give it a pause now and then to let it sink. Using different lures, like spinnerbaits, soft plastics, and surface lures, will give you a better chance of hooking one.

What are some good lures for bass fishing?

Yeah, bringing a good variety of lures is a smart move. For surface fishing, lures like the Duo Realis walk-the-dogs are brilliant, especially with a ‘twitch, twitch, pause’ retrieve – it really gets the fish that are smashing bait on the surface going. When the sun’s higher, spinnerbaits are great. I found the Bassman double blades in 3/8 ounce work well. Just remember you might lose a few to snags, but a slow wind out of them often tempts a bass to have a go.